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Chap Trousers | Aug, 2020
During the COVID-19 quarantine, I had an idea to make a pair of trousers to go along with my Maison Margiela Tabi Boots. I wanted it to be a loose to straight leg fit. Instead of trying to replicate pre-existing items, I wanted to make something original. I began the process by creating a mood board filled with 70s fashion, David Bowie, and Japanese school uniforms from 80s-90s. Then I sketched out ideas, but I hit a wall, and none of them were clicking. After taking a break, a photo I saw on Instagram came to mind and decided to take inspiration from it. The person was wearing this Loewe leather chap boots. I played around with the silhouette and the idea of leather chaps, incorporating it into my design.
Once I finished sketching, I drafted a pattern onto a sheet of paper using pants I own as references. Later on, I realized that my hip measurement was wrong in relation to the fly, and halfway through the construction, when I first tried it on, it would not go over my hip.
I transferred the pattern onto the fabric. I chose woven mulberry silk fabric with some texture to differentiate from other trousers I own. The silk fabric also helps to give more dynamics to the garment with movement.
I took my time during the sewing stage to eliminate any mistakes and turned out successfully. Each seam is sewn clean and sits nicely. To fix the hip measurement issue, I added a teardrop-shaped gusset to add some width while keeping the design cohesive. This was also my first time adding a lining to trouser, and I thought it would be a lot more complicated, but I was able to sew it with ease. I've added a slash pocket on the front and jetted pocket on the back. The only mistake and what I would do differently is the jetted pockets. I made a mistake by not cutting the fabric enough, and the width of the pocket came out smaller than I planned. It also resulted in a bit of difference in width on each side, where the right pocket is slightly narrower than the left.
Overall, I am thrilled with the result, and I think it's one of my best work I've done so far.
Sustainable Fashion | Sep, 2019 - April, 2020
Here is a collection of clothing I worked on while working on my thesis project. The common thread is sustainable fashion. I explored different ways to make garments with sustainability in mind.
The silver jacket is a reworked button-up, which I bought from a thrift store. I wanted to create a more modern silhouette but also with longevity in mind. Haider Ackermann's design inspired me, especially his proportions. The result is a simple statement piece that you can wear daily.
The chain denim was inspired by one of Hedi Slimane's coveted pieces from his time at Saint Laurent. I took an old pair of bell-bottom Levi's, tailored it to a slimmer fit, then added the rips, and lastly, hand sewed each chain to the seam allowance.
I experimented with laser raster for the denim jacket to add the graphic on the back. Through some research, I discovered that using a laser to add fading is environmentally friendly.
Lastly, I made this black shirt using excess fabrics that were purchased by an old fashion brand. It is 100% silk, which avoids microplastic contaminating the water during laundry.
Harness Holster Bag | June, 2020
This bag is one of my latest projects. The design itself is not unique, but I wanted to challenge myself with new material, faux leather. I took the idea from Amiri, and I tried to replicate the design using faux leather instead of real leather.
I started by looking at reference photos from different e-commerce sites of Amiri's bag. I worked out where the strap would sit and the placement of pouches in relation to the body. Then I made a paper pattern and put it against my body to see if it sit right. After some tweaks, I transferred the pattern onto the faux leather, cut it out and sewed it together.
It was a lot of trial and error, trying to sew this with my sewing machine. I don't have a walking foot, so the fabric kept getting stuck, or with the backsides together, it slipped. I figured out that using baby powder would let the material move smoother, and I could sew the whole thing.
Stripe Shirt & Painted Jeans | Jan, 2018
The stripe shirt is one of the first sewing projects I did as my hobby. Before this, I had only made a few clothes and were subpar quality. I got the idea when I saw a button-up from Haider Ackermann on Instagram, and I decided to challenge myself to see if I could make it on my own. I sketched out the rough idea, and how I wanted the proportion to look like, then I began making the pattern. I spent quite a long time at the fabric store to find the right fabric. In hindsight, the material may be for interior use like a curtain or a cushion cover. This shirt was also the first garment I made that came out exactly how I envisioned and gained confidence in how I made the pattern.
The painted jeans also had a similar origin. I saw ASAP Rocky wearing a Gucci floral denim, which inspired me to try it out. I had a pair of jeans that I wasn't wearing, and it was the perfect way to revive it rather than collect dust in my closet. It came about on a whim, so after I bought some fabric paint, I went straight to work on the pants rather than sketching out. I had reference photos on my computer open and took my time painting each flower.
Pleated Trousers | May, 2018
As my style evolved, I wanted to try out different garments. Often, this impulse became the driver of making clothes. The trousers here are a great example. I wanted a nice pair of straight-leg trousers for the summer to compliment my boots and button-up obsession. While looking for some inspiration, I came across this photo of a man captured at a fashion week and was wearing brown trousers with ease. I loosely based my design on it with my twist. As I always do, I started making a pattern based on clothes I already own and took my time and especially trying to figure out the sewn-in double pleats. Then I went to buy some fabric, transferred the pattern, and began constructing. This was my first ever pair of pants I made. Along the process, I accidentally cut into the fabric while trimming some seam allowance. Luckily, I gave myself a big seam allowance, and I was able to recover by sewing the leg slightly slimmer.